Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse ref. 3648 Asprey Co-Signed Tropical Dial

Patek Philippe has never really needed to shout about how great their watches are, the watches do it for them, and nowhere is that more evident than in the Golden Ellipse. Launched in 1968 and inspired by, and built around, the mathematical Golden Ratio, the Golden Ellipse gave Patek a case shape that was neither round nor rectangular, but something calmer and more considered. Not quite an oval either, it leaned on the unusual shapes that were beginning to come to the fore of watchmaking in the late 1960s and early 1970s, as brands experimented and broke from the convention of perfectly circular dress watches.

Launched in 1972 and made until the late 1970s, the ref. 3648 refined the idea of restraint further, with its case’s 27mm x 32mm proportions striking a balance between pure elegance and presence. Powered by the manual-wind cal. 23-300, the ref. 3648 is a spectacular example of Patek’s prowess during the 1970s, with its beautiful finishing and appealing architecture. Just like what’s inside it, the ref. 3648’s bracelet is a total showstopper. Featuring a hand-crafted 18kt yellow gold chainmail bracelet made by famed jeweller and bracelet-maker Jean-Pierre Ecoffey, the resulting aesthetic that the entire watch has as a result is spectacular and a world away from the leather straps most 3648s are found on today.

What sets this particular example apart is its dial. While originally blue, it has aged to include a whole variety of different tones ranging from its original blue around its periphery to purple and copper depending on the light. I know it’s a cliché, but this dial truly does play with the light like no other. It can be quite vivid purple at times, and sometimes it looks champagne. Incredible colour aside for a moment, this example’s dial is also co-signed by Asprey, the London jeweller and longtime royal warrant holder that retailed Patek pieces to a very particular clientele throughout the twentieth century. What’s most fitting about that is Asprey’s brand colours are purple, and this dial is often a rich royal purple. Complete with its London Assay Office hallmarks on its caseback and bracelet clasp to complete its story, this example is the ultimate expression of mid-century Patek Philippe luxury.

Presented in wonderful external condition, this example is free from any signs of damage like dents or large scratches. Its bracelet has been cut before, but remains very long and can easily accommodate a wrist of 7.75”. Its crystal has no scratches, and its manual-wind movement runs well. It was serviced by our watchmaker before coming into stock and will come with our 1-year warranty, as with all of our watches. The dial does include some very obvious patination. Aside from the change of its original blue colour to copper and purple, the dial also includes several pieces of what I suspect to be paint loss where the dial’s gold baseplate is exposed. The 18kt yellow gold hands and hour markers are well-preserved, however. The Asprey co-signature is still well-preserved, as is the rest of its printing.

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