Jaeger-LeCoultre Deep-Sea Chronograph Shark ref. E2643 "Vogue"

They might be better known for classics like the Reverso or Master Collection, but Jaeger-LeCoultre has some impressive pedigree within the arena of mid-century chronographs too. Perhaps one of the most competitive and influential niches within watchmaking, it’s fair to say that Jaeger-LeCoultre probably aren’t who you think of when it comes to early chronograph tool watches. Models like the Rolex Daytona, Heuer Carrera/Monaco/Autavia, Breitling Navitimer, Omega Speedmaster and many more would naturally come to mind first, but none of that is to say that what we have here, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Deep-Sea Shark ref. E2643 isn’t a spectacular watch in its own right.

Tremendously rare and not just designed to be a plain old chronograph, the ref. E2643, or the “Vogue” as it was known in Europe or the “Deep Sea Chronograph” as it was known in the US was created as a diving chronograph. Offered with three different bezel options, the ref. E2643 could either be delivered with a standard diving bezel, a 24-hour bezel, or a world-time bezel as on this example. Measuring 41mm in diameter and 13mm tall, the ref. E2643 is a large watch, but with its bevelled lugs, black bezel, black reverse panda dial, and bevelled midcase that flows onto the caseback, the resulting design doesn’t overpower the wrist as its measurements suggest.

Boasting a wonderfully aged tritium dial and handset with concentric guilloche engraving within its white subdials, the ref. E2643’s design is a careful balance of JLC’s renowned flair for classicism and the model’s own requirement to be sporty and functional as a diving chronograph. Ultimately, that divergence is what makes it so unique. Sure, brands like Heuer, Rolex, Breitling and Omega made wonderful chronographs in the late 1960s too, but they didn’t do it with such careful restraint that could lead to the creation of something as special as the ref. E2643, and that’s why collectors love it this incredibly unique mid-century watchmaking rarity.

Presented in excellent condition for its age, this example’s stainless steel case appears unpolished with all of its bevels remaining consistent throughout and wonderfully sharp as they transition into one another. Its manual-wind Valjoux cal. 72 movement runs and works as it should. Its black bi-directional worldtimer bezel is free from any dents or large scratches that might otherwise obscure any of the 24 cities that populate its circumference. The bezel’s black paint has faded within its knurling, as is typical for this watch and other watches of its age.

The reverse panda dial’s lume has aged to a nice and consistent cream colour that matches the lume on its original hands. The dial’s condition itself is fantastic, with only one small piece of discolouration visible under the naked eye within the 3 o’clock subdial between the 15 and 20-minute markings. The hashed winding crown and pump pushers are original. The caseback includes some tool marks from previous openings as you often find on older watches, and its serial number and stainless steel engraving remain perfectly legible. The aftermarket strap and buckle are in excellent condition.

Brand: Jaeger-LeCoultre 
Model: Deep-Sea Chronograph Shark "Vogue"
Reference: E2643
Set: Watch only
Year: Circa 1960
Dial: Black
Material: Stainless steel
Movement: Manual-wind Valjoux cal. 72
Case Diameter: 40mm
Thickness: 13mm
Lug-to-lug: 48mm
Weight: 30g
Lug Width: 20mm
Bracelet/Strap: Fabric strap
Internal Stock Number: HW-26-A014