Grand Seiko Manual-Wind Spring Drive ref. SBGW031 Full set

Founded in 1960 to highlight the strength of Japanese watchmaking and combat Swiss dominance, Grand Seiko has gone from strength to strength in recent years to become one of the watchmaking industry’s best-known non-Swiss darling brands. That reputation, of course, wasn’t earned for no good reason. Indeed, their watches are splendid inside and out and it is watches like the SBGW031 that we have here that created Grand Seiko’s modern foundational reputation. A dress watch from their Elegance Collection, the SBGW031 debuted in 2012 as a vintage-inspired watch that sought to combine the brand’s design heritage with their modern watchmaking capabilities.

Boasting a 37.3mm stainless steel case with Grand Seiko’s iconic Zaratsu polishing throughout its case and lugs, the SBGW031 ‘s construction is almost jewel-like, with its surfaces reflecting light in mesmerizing fashion. Featuring a boxy sapphire crystal that stands tall over the dial, the resulting aesthetic is similar to vintage dress watches with tall hesalite crystals. An off-white colour and sporting both Seiko and Grand Seiko’s logos as per its age as an early Grand Seiko model (in terms of its modern lineage), the SBGW031 is carefully understated. Capped off with faceted hour markers and sharp dauphine hands, its lack of exuberance certainly doesn’t mean the SBGW031 is lacking craftsmanship.

Powered by the manual-wind Spring Drive cal. 9S64 movement, which is on display behind an exhibition caseback, the SBGW031 gives its owner plenty to look at and admire from both its front and back.

Offered in excellent condition, our example’s stainless steel case only displays light scratches that would indicate careful wear over the year. Its movement runs and functions as it should, and its dial and hands are pristine. The watch does not show any large or obvious signs of damage such as dents or deep scratches. The sapphire crystal does have two very small scratches on its external surface in its centre. These do not seem to have shown up in the photographs due to their small size.

Brand: Grand Seiko
Model: Elegance Collection
Reference: SBGW031
Set: Watch, box, and papers
Year: 2012
Dial: Off-white
Material: Stainless steel
Movement: Manual-wind Spring Drive cal. 9S64
Case Diameter: 37.3mm
Thickness: 11.6mm
Lug-to-lug: 44.3mm
Lug Width: 19mm
Bracelet/Strap: Original Seiko leather strap with original Seiko stainless steel pin buckle